Sunday, July 20, 2014

A Little Summer Crocheting

Summer is here and it has brought the heat.


This is a good time to take things slow and enjoy the world outside while it is fun to get wet and not just a matter of going outside.  It also means that I'm doing less knitting and more crocheting while I deal with these hot summer nights.

Luckily, a couple of years ago I ran across a reprint of and old needle work series, republished by Piecework Magazine.  The Facsimile Editions of Weldon's Practical Needlework proved to be a fun glimpse into past works and design ideas.  The books appear to be actual reprints of the original books with obsolete terms, expected prior knowledge, and illustrations included.  While I found out about them too late to get a full set, it's safe to say that I enjoy going through each of the books that I have been able to get a hold of and peruse the pictures looking for ideas, techniques, and a bit of history.  When a particular illustration catches my attention I sit down a try to translate it's pattern into terms that I can better understand and use later.  This usually takes a bit of trial and error and messing about with what tools and fibers I'm using.  (Since none of the patterns include gauges this also leaves a lot of leeway on what I want the finished product to be.)

This next little piece was inspired by a dress trim in Volume 6.  Generally enjoying knots, cables, and spirals, the Passementerie Dress Trimming on page 8 of the Crochet Fourteenth Series in the book was one of the first patterns I worked on translating.  This led to an interesting medallion motif that I used occasionally as a patch for clothing or other pieces, but I could see myself using it as a real trim.


So one day in a fit of boredom I just started making a bunch of medallions together and this doily is the result.

Using cotton thread means that it's easier to work with in the heat that a larger gauge yarn.  Plus the way that the medallions are created gives them a textural element that adds nicely to something that may be left around the house.  :)  The original finished doily measured with about a 9 inch diameter.

I would like to thank snapdragon on Ravelry whose interest in this pattern made me translate my original scribbled notes into something someone else could read.  

And remember, if you don't like the gauge, change it.  If you don't like the thread, use something else.  Just have fun and see were your hook takes you.  The only thing that I ask, is please do not sell the pattern as your own, as I can't totally claim it as mine either.  :)

If you have any questions about the pattern, please email me at GridMammalCrafts@gmail.com and I'll get back to you as soon as I can.

Also, if you would like a pdf version of this pattern, and have a Ravelry account, it can be found here.

Seven Spiral Doily



Materials:
            1 Ball, DMC Cebelia Size 10 Crochet Thread
            1.25 mm Crochet Hook
            Small Darning Needle
Notes:
The pattern for the medallions is an interpretation of a pattern found in Piecework Magazine Presents, A Facsimile Edition Of, Weldon’s Practical Needlework, Volume 6, called “Passementerie Dress Trimming”, original author unknown.  Copyright 2002, Interweave Press, Inc., Loveland, Colorado.
Each medallion can be crocheted individually and then sewn together, or can be crocheted to the surrounding medallions as it is being made.

Key:
     

Instructions for medallions:
            (Make 7)
            Part 1 – ch 7; join in a round with a sl st through the first chain to form a ring

Part 2 – 12 sc in the ring that was just made; sl st into the first sc
         
         Part 3 (First Arm)  
a.    ch 14; turn work
b.    sc into the back bump of the last ch made
c.    sc 21 around the 13 chain just made
d.    sc into the next sc from Part 2; turn work
e.    sc into the back loop of the of the  21 sc just made in Row 3, part c
f.     ch 1; turn work
g.    [sc into the back loop of the next 4 sc from Part 3.d; ch 4] 4 times; sc into the back loop of the last sc on the arm
h.   sc into the next sc from Part 2


Part 4 (Second through Fifth Arms)
a.    ch 14
b.    sl st into the third picot made on the previous leg
c.    sc 21 over the last ch 14
d.    sc into the next sc from Part 2; turn work
e.    sc into the back loop of the 21 sc made in Part 4.c
f.     ch 1; turn work
g.    [sc into the back loop of the next 4 sc from Part 4.e; ch 4] 4 times; sc into the back loop of the last sc on the arm
h.   sc into the next sc from Part 2

(Complete this section a total of 4 times.)

Part 5 (Sixth Arm)  
a.        ch 14
b.       sl st into the third picot made on the previous leg
c.        sc 21 over the last ch 14
d.       sc into the next sc from Part 2; turn work
e.        sc into the back loop of the 21 sc made in Part 5.c
f.        ch 1; turn work
g.       [sc into the back loop of the next 4 sc from Part 5.e; ch 4]  2 times; ch 2; sl st through the end of the first arm made (This can be tricky, try aiming for the stitch from Part 3.b);  ch 1; sc into the back loop of the next 4 sc from Part 5.e;  ch 4;  sc into the back loop of the last  5 sc on the arm
h.       sl st into the last sc from Part 2

Pull thread through and cut leaving ~6” tail.


Instructions for joining medallions:
            Medallions can be joined after each one is made, or as each successive medallion is made.  Personally I prefer to join each new medallion as I make it.
For joining to a single medallion
i.         Complete through Part 3.f of the second medallion
ii.        sc into the back loop of the closest 4 sc from previous row starting with the one closest to the hook; ch 4;
-      sc into the back loop of the next 4 sc on the arm; ch 2; ch 1 through the first loop of an arm of the first medallion; ch 1; (It doesn’t matter which arm as long as the line up correctly.)


Be sure that the medallions will have the same face forward as you sew them together, because it will be obvious latter on if you have one facing a different direction.
iii.      [sc into the back loop of the next 4 sc on the arm; ch 4] twice;  sc into the back loop of the last 5 sc on the arm;  sc into the next sc from the initial ring (This completes the first arm of the second medallion.)
iv.      Continue working through Part4.e of the next arm
v.       sc into the outside tip of the arm on the first medallion that you have already attached to (Be careful not to add a twist to the medallions.)


chart for instructions i through v

vi.      sc into the back loop of the closest 4 sc from previous row starting with the one closest to the hook;
-      2; ch 1 through the second ch 4 space on the next leg on the first medallion; ch 1; sc into the back loop of the next 4 sc on the arm you are currently working on


Chart for instructions vi through vii 
vii.    [Ch 4; sc into the back loop of the next 4 sc] x 3, sc into the back loop of the last sc on the arm
viii.   Sc into the next sc from Part 2
ix.      Complete the rest of the medallion as before


For joining to multiple medallions
·         Start as if you are joining to a single medallion, instead of continuing with Step g,
-      ch 2; ch 1 through the first loop on the arm of the next medallion; ch 1; sc into the back loop of the next 4 sc on the medallion that you are building
-      [ch 4; sc into the back loop of the next 4 sc] x 2, sc into the back loop of the last sc on the arm
-      Continue from Part 4.h  of the current arm through 4.e of the next arm




·         Continue on as you did joining to the first medallion from Step v
·         Continue like this until you have joined to as many medallions as you wish.
·         After you have finished attaching to as many medallions as you wish, complete the rest of the medallion starting with Part 4.g after the first picot.


After all medallions are finished weave in and trim ends.
Instructions for edging:
            After all the medallions have been made and attached together, and after all of the ends have been woven in:
Round 1 – With the right side of the doily facing you, choose a space between two medallions and attach thread to the picot on the left side.

a.        Working to the left, ch 7
b.        [sl st into the tip of the arm to the left; (ch 7; sl st into the picot on the left) twice;  ch 7] twice
c.         sl st into the tip of the arm to the left; ch 7; sl st into the picot on the left; ch 7
d.       sl st into the picot on the next medallion; ch 7
·         Repeat Steps b through d around the doily 5 more times
·         Repeat Steps b through c once more
·         Sl st into where you joined the thread.

            Round 2
e.        sl st into the first 4 ch of the first round
f.        [ch 7; sl st into the center chain of the next ch 7 loop from round 1] 7 times
g.       tr 4 into the ch 7 joining the two medallions; ch 3; tr 4 into the same ch 7
h.       sl st into the center ch of the next ch 7 of the first row
·         Repeat Steps f through h around the edge of the doily, ending with a sl st into the base of the first ch 7 of Row 2

            Round 3  
i.         sl st into the first 4 ch of the second round
j.         [ch 7; sl st into the center chain of the next ch 7 loop from round 2] 6 times
k.       tr 3 into the first tr made in the section;  ch 2; tr 5 into the space between the tr in the second row; ch 2; tr 3 into the last tr made in the section in the previous row; sl st to the center chain of the next ch 7 loop
·         Repeat Steps j through k around the edge of the doily, ending with a sl st into the base of the first ch 7 of Round 3

            Round 4
l.         sl st into the first 4 ch of the third round
m.     [ch 7; sl st into the center chain of the next ch 7 loop from round 3] 5 times
n.       tr 3 into the first tr made in the section; [ch 2; tr 4 into the next space] twice; ch 2; tr 3 into the last tr made in the section in the previous row; sl st to the center chain of the next ch 7 loop
·         Repeat Steps m through n around the edge of the doily, ending with a sl st into the base of the first ch 7 of Round 4

            Round 5
o.       [sc 11 over the next ch 7] 5 times
p.       sc into the top of the next 3 tr; [sc 2 over the ch 2 space; sc into the top of the next four tr] twice; sc 2 over the ch 2 space; sc into the top of the next 3 tr
·         Repeat Steps o through p around the edge of the doily, ending with a sl st into the base of the first sc of Round 5

Pull thread through and cut leaving ~6” tail.
Weave in ends. ends.

16 comments:

  1. I cannot figure out the sixth arm. If anyone can help, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  2. An update was just made to the language of that section. I'm sorry for the confusion.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks for the update. It makes sense now.

      Delete
  3. Grid mammal, do you have a blueprint for this pattern please?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Unfortunately I do not currently have the software to draw this pattern. I will let you know as soon as there is an image for it. Sorry.

      Delete
    2. It's been awhile, but some charts have now been added to the pattern.

      Delete
  4. Is there a video for this?
    The wording of the pattern is confusing, it's so beautiful, is love to make it, but keep stumbling over the wording. Thank you!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi,
      Currently there isn't a video or chart for this pattern. Sorry for the inconvenience. I'm working with some new software to try to make the pattern more user friendly, but it's taking a while.If there are specific questions, I would be happy to try to reword or fix the pattern. If not, I will let you know as soon as I have some better resources for this pattern. Thank you.

      Delete
  5. I didn't get too far before getting confused....how do I sc 21 over the 13 sc after sc in back hump? (First arm)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That's where I stopped. Not sure how to proceed. Beautiful finished product. Elusive journey.

      Delete
    2. Ok, so on the first arm you have a chain with 14 stitches. After that you turned the chain over and single crocheted once into the back stitch of the last chain you made. Now the back stitches of your chain are facing up and the initial ring is to your left. Then, instead of single crocheting the next 21 stitches through the remaining 13 chains, you single crochet around them. So, with the one loop on the hook, move the hook in front of and below the chain. Pull a second loop up from behind the chain from your working thread. Then, pass the hook over the top of the chain taking another loop with the working thread and passing this loop through the two previous loops on the hook. That should lead to a single crochet stitch that wraps around the chain. This should be repeated 20 more times along the length of the chain. This increased number of stitches should cause the arm to curve a bit. I hope that this helps. If it doesn't or you have any more questions, please do not hesitate to email me at gridmammalcrafts@gmail . Thank you. :)

      Delete
    3. I've just posted some updates to the pattern online. I hope that they help. :)

      Delete
  6. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Great doily..I tried , I am a beginner ..Some mistakes were there but I made.thanks for pattern

    ReplyDelete
  8. Great doily..I tried , I am a beginner ..Some mistakes were there but I made.thanks for pattern

    ReplyDelete