Summer is here and it has brought the heat.
This is a good time to take things slow and enjoy the world outside while it is fun to get wet and not just a matter of going outside. It also means that I'm doing less knitting and more crocheting while I deal with these hot summer nights.
Luckily, a couple of years ago I ran across a reprint of and old needle work series, republished by Piecework Magazine. The Facsimile Editions of Weldon's Practical Needlework proved to be a fun glimpse into past works and design ideas. The books appear to be actual reprints of the original books with obsolete terms, expected prior knowledge, and illustrations included. While I found out about them too late to get a full set, it's safe to say that I enjoy going through each of the books that I have been able to get a hold of and peruse the pictures looking for ideas, techniques, and a bit of history. When a particular illustration catches my attention I sit down a try to translate it's pattern into terms that I can better understand and use later. This usually takes a bit of trial and error and messing about with what tools and fibers I'm using. (Since none of the patterns include gauges this also leaves a lot of leeway on what I want the finished product to be.)
This next little piece was inspired by a dress trim in Volume 6. Generally enjoying knots, cables, and spirals, the Passementerie Dress Trimming on page 8 of the Crochet Fourteenth Series in the book was one of the first patterns I worked on translating. This led to an interesting medallion motif that I used occasionally as a patch for clothing or other pieces, but I could see myself using it as a real trim.
So one day in a fit of boredom I just started making a bunch of medallions together and this doily is the result.
Using cotton thread means that it's easier to work with in the heat that a larger gauge yarn. Plus the way that the medallions are created gives them a textural element that adds nicely to something that may be left around the house. :) The original finished doily measured with about a 9 inch diameter.
I would like to thank snapdragon on Ravelry whose interest in this pattern made me translate my original scribbled notes into something someone else could read.
And remember, if you don't like the gauge, change it. If you don't like the thread, use something else. Just have fun and see were your hook takes you. The only thing that I ask, is please do not sell the pattern as your own, as I can't totally claim it as mine either. :)
If you have any questions about the pattern, please email me at GridMammalCrafts@gmail.com and I'll get back to you as soon as I can.
Also, if you would like a pdf version of this pattern, and have a Ravelry account, it can be found here.
Seven Spiral Doily
Materials:
1 Ball, DMC Cebelia Size 10 Crochet
Thread
1.25 mm Crochet Hook
Small Darning Needle
Notes:
The pattern for the medallions is an
interpretation of a pattern found in Piecework Magazine Presents, A Facsimile
Edition Of, Weldon’s Practical Needlework, Volume 6, called “Passementerie Dress Trimming”,
original author unknown. Copyright 2002,
Interweave Press, Inc., Loveland, Colorado.
Each medallion can be crocheted
individually and then sewn together, or can be crocheted to the surrounding
medallions as it is being made. It
is suggested that medallions are joined as they are made.
Key:
Instructions
for medallions:
(Make
7)
Part 1 –
ch 7; join in a round with a sl st through the first chain to form a ring
Part
2 – 12 sc in the ring that was just made; sl st into the first sc
Part 3 (First Arm)
a. ch 14; turn work
b. sc into the back bump of
the last ch made
c.
sc 21 around the 13
chain just made
d. sc into the next sc from
Part 2; turn work
e. sc into the back loop of
the of the 21 sc just made in Row 3,
part c
f. ch 1; turn work
g. [sc into the back loop of
the next 4 sc from Part 3.d; ch 4] 4 times; sc into the back loop of the last sc
on the arm
h. sc into the next sc from Part
2
Part 4 (Second through Fifth Arms)
a. ch 14
b. sl st into the third picot
made on the previous leg
c.
sc 21 over the last
ch 14
d. sc into the next sc from Part
2; turn work
e. sc into the back loop of
the 21 sc made in Part 4.c
f. ch 1; turn work
g. [sc into the back loop of
the next 4 sc from Part 4.e; ch 4] 4 times; sc into the back loop of the last
sc on the arm
h. sc into the next sc from Part
2
(Complete
this section a total of 4 times.)
Part 5 (Sixth Arm)
a.
ch 14
b. sl st into the third picot
made on the previous leg
c.
sc 21 over the last
ch 14
d. sc into the next sc from Part
2; turn work
e.
sc into the back loop of the 21 sc made in Part 5.c
f.
ch 1; turn work
g. [sc into the back loop of
the next 4 sc from Part 5.e; ch 4] 2
times; ch 2; sl st through the end of the first arm made (This can be tricky, try aiming for the stitch from Part 3.b); ch 1; sc into the back loop of the next 4 sc
from Part 5.e; ch 4; sc into the back loop of the last 5 sc on the arm
h. sl st into the last sc from
Part 2
Pull thread through and cut leaving ~6”
tail.
Instructions
for joining medallions:
Medallions can be joined after each one
is made, or as each successive medallion is made. Personally I prefer to join each new
medallion as I make it.
For joining to a single medallion
i.
Complete
through Part 3.f of the second medallion
ii.
sc into the back loop of the closest 4 sc from previous row
starting with the one closest to the hook; ch 4;
- sc into the back loop of
the next 4 sc on the arm; ch 2; ch 1 through the first loop of an arm of the
first medallion; ch 1; (It doesn’t matter which arm as long as the
line up correctly.)
Be
sure that the medallions will have the same face forward as you sew them
together, because it will be obvious latter on if you have one facing a
different direction.
iii. [sc into the back loop of
the next 4 sc on the arm; ch 4] twice; sc into the back loop of the last 5 sc on the
arm; sc into the next sc from the
initial ring (This completes the first arm of the
second medallion.)
iv. Continue working through Part4.e of the
next arm
v. sc into the outside tip of
the arm on the first medallion that you have already attached to (Be
careful not to add a twist to the medallions.)
chart for instructions i through v
vi. sc into the back loop of
the closest 4 sc from previous row starting with the one closest to the hook;
-
2; ch 1 through the second ch 4 space on the next leg on the
first medallion; ch 1; sc into the back loop of the next 4 sc on the arm you
are currently working on
Chart for instructions vi through vii
vii. [Ch 4; sc into the back
loop of the next 4 sc] x 3, sc into the back loop of the last sc on the arm
viii.
Sc into the next sc from Part 2
ix. Complete the rest of the medallion as
before
For joining to multiple medallions
·
Start
as if you are joining to a single medallion, instead of continuing with Step g,
-
ch 2; ch 1 through the first loop on the arm of the next
medallion; ch 1; sc into the back loop of the next 4 sc on the medallion that
you are building
-
[ch 4; sc into the back loop of the next 4 sc] x 2, sc into the
back loop of the last sc on the arm
- Continue from Part 4.h of the current arm through 4.e of the next arm
·
Continue
on as you did joining to the first medallion from Step v
·
Continue like this until you have joined
to as many medallions as you wish.
·
After you have finished attaching to as
many medallions as you wish, complete the rest of the medallion starting with
Part 4.g after the first picot.
After all medallions are finished weave
in and trim ends.
Instructions
for edging:
After
all the medallions have been made and attached together, and after all of the
ends have been woven in:
Round 1 – With the right side of the
doily facing you, choose a space between two medallions and attach thread to
the picot on the left side.
a.
Working to the left, ch 7
b. [sl st into the tip of the arm to the left; (ch 7; sl st
into the picot on the left) twice; ch 7]
twice
c.
sl st into the tip
of the arm to the left; ch 7; sl st into the picot on the left; ch 7
d. sl st into the picot on
the next medallion; ch 7
·
Repeat
Steps b through d around the doily 5 more times
·
Repeat
Steps b through c once more
·
Sl st into where you
joined the thread.
Round 2
e.
sl st into the first 4 ch of the first round
f.
[ch 7; sl st into the center chain of the next ch 7 loop from round
1] 7 times
g. tr 4 into the ch 7 joining
the two medallions; ch 3; tr 4 into the same ch 7
h. sl st into the center ch
of the next ch 7 of the first row
·
Repeat
Steps f through h around the edge of the doily, ending
with a sl st into the base of the first ch 7 of Row 2
Round 3
i.
sl st into the first 4 ch of the second round
j.
[ch 7; sl st into the center chain of the next ch 7 loop from round
2] 6 times
k. tr 3 into the first tr
made in the section; ch 2; tr 5 into the
space between the tr in the second row; ch 2; tr 3 into the last tr made in the
section in the previous row; sl st to the center chain of the next ch 7 loop
·
Repeat
Steps j through k around the edge of the doily, ending
with a sl st into the base of the first ch 7 of Round 3
Round 4
l.
sl st into the first 4 ch of the third round
m. [ch 7; sl st into the
center chain of the next ch 7 loop from round 3] 5 times
n. tr 3 into the first tr
made in the section; [ch 2; tr 4 into the next space] twice; ch 2; tr 3 into
the last tr made in the section in the previous row; sl st to the center chain of
the next ch 7 loop
·
Repeat
Steps m through n around the edge of the doily, ending
with a sl st into the base of the first ch 7 of Round 4
Round 5
o. [sc 11 over the next ch 7]
5 times
p. sc into the top of the next
3 tr; [sc 2 over the ch 2 space; sc into the top of the next four tr] twice; sc
2 over the ch 2 space; sc into the top of the next 3 tr
·
Repeat
Steps o through p around the edge of the doily, ending
with a sl st into the base of the first sc of Round 5
Pull thread through and cut leaving ~6”
tail.
Weave in ends. ends.
I cannot figure out the sixth arm. If anyone can help, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteAn update was just made to the language of that section. I'm sorry for the confusion.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the update. It makes sense now.
DeleteGrid mammal, do you have a blueprint for this pattern please?
ReplyDeleteUnfortunately I do not currently have the software to draw this pattern. I will let you know as soon as there is an image for it. Sorry.
DeleteIt's been awhile, but some charts have now been added to the pattern.
DeleteIs there a video for this?
ReplyDeleteThe wording of the pattern is confusing, it's so beautiful, is love to make it, but keep stumbling over the wording. Thank you!!
Hi,
DeleteCurrently there isn't a video or chart for this pattern. Sorry for the inconvenience. I'm working with some new software to try to make the pattern more user friendly, but it's taking a while.If there are specific questions, I would be happy to try to reword or fix the pattern. If not, I will let you know as soon as I have some better resources for this pattern. Thank you.
I didn't get too far before getting confused....how do I sc 21 over the 13 sc after sc in back hump? (First arm)
ReplyDeleteThat's where I stopped. Not sure how to proceed. Beautiful finished product. Elusive journey.
DeleteOk, so on the first arm you have a chain with 14 stitches. After that you turned the chain over and single crocheted once into the back stitch of the last chain you made. Now the back stitches of your chain are facing up and the initial ring is to your left. Then, instead of single crocheting the next 21 stitches through the remaining 13 chains, you single crochet around them. So, with the one loop on the hook, move the hook in front of and below the chain. Pull a second loop up from behind the chain from your working thread. Then, pass the hook over the top of the chain taking another loop with the working thread and passing this loop through the two previous loops on the hook. That should lead to a single crochet stitch that wraps around the chain. This should be repeated 20 more times along the length of the chain. This increased number of stitches should cause the arm to curve a bit. I hope that this helps. If it doesn't or you have any more questions, please do not hesitate to email me at gridmammalcrafts@gmail . Thank you. :)
DeleteI've just posted some updates to the pattern online. I hope that they help. :)
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThank you. Happy stitching. :)
ReplyDeleteHi
ReplyDeleteI've completed all the medallions and now realise that they are best joined together as they are made. I feel a bit of information about that at the beginning of the pattern would have been useful.
Now I'm not sure whether to unravel them to connect them together or find my own way.
Also, what are the 6" lengths for?
Hope you can help. Nannynina :)
Good Morning,
DeleteI'm sorry for the misunderstanding. I stated at the beginning of the Instructions for Joining Medallions section that joining as one went is my preference, but I can see how that could be missed.
Don't unravel, you've done suck a lot of work. Take small amounts of thread and and either knot the joining sections together, or weave in an end, stitch the join together and weave in the other end.
The 6" lengths are so that there is enough thread to weave in your ends so that they do not unravel.
I hope that helps. Please let me know if there is anything that I can explain better or anything else that you would like to know.
Thank you.
-Grid Mammal
Thank you for replying so quickly and fully. I'll take a look at them another day with fresh eyes and try one of your suggestions.
ReplyDeleteBest wishes
Nina
OK....I LOVE LOVE LOVE this pattern and have been eyeing it with fear and longing for probably a month now lol. But, I've finally decided to take the plunge and get started. I'm glad i read through the comments here to see that some problems were already answered and the pattern adjusted. But i will most likely need help along the way at some point lol. I've been crocheting only for about 8 years now. As i read along the pattern, i noticed that the images and symbol charts shown as you go, made it much easier for me to understand some areas. So thank you for that extra effort! So, without further ado.....plunge time! omg God help me! lol
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis is my first lace pattern, I'm on the third medallion, joining as I go. I'm a little lost on joining the third, but I will figure it out, I'm sure. Thank you for the pattern, it is a nice first project, something with real meat to sink my teeth into, I really appreciate the challenge!
ReplyDeleteThank you for your comment. If I can help, please let me know.
DeleteHappy crocheting! :)
I’ve been thinking about crocheting this one for a while, but — anyone done it left handed? Normally not an issue, but with this pattern..?
ReplyDeleteHello TerjeRK,
ReplyDeleteI haven't tried this left handed, but since it doesn't really matter which direction the medallions are worked as long as the direction is consistent, it seems totally doable. I would try with the single medallion and if the stated direction doesn't work, flip the direction of work. If you would like me to send you the images mirrored, just let me know.
Thanks.
Happy crocheting.
-Grid Mammal
Thank you, it worked out quite nicely :) Crocheting this pattern is lots of fun. These spirals should work out fine in a dress?
DeleteI'm glad that it is working out for you. :) It should work nicely in a dress, depending on how it is used. Just remember that the connection points will be where it is weakest. So if you are using these in a part of a dress that is taking a lot of weight, you may want to reinforce that section.
DeleteIt sounds exciting.
Happy crocheting!
-Grid Mammal
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
ReplyDeleteI was wondering how I would go about increasing the size of this. I want to use to for a Dream Catcher, but want a bit bigger one to hang on the wall. Thanx in advance.
ReplyDeleteHello,
DeleteThat sounds like fun. :)
Let's see, the first thing that I would probably try is using a larger gauge yarn and crochet hook. The two changes together and respective to each other should allow for a simpler way to make the same pattern bigger.
If you are looking for the same sized medallions, but covering a bigger area, you can add another circle (so to speak) of medallions around the core to increase the over all diameter.
Is this helpful?
Thank you for the great question.
-Grid Mammal
Yes that was helpful. Thank you very much.
DeleteThis turned out beautifully, thank you so much for your generosity in sharing it!
ReplyDeleteJust completed this doily. It’s beautiful. Thank you for the pattern!
ReplyDeleteThat's great. Thank you so much. :)
Delete