Summer is here and it has brought the heat.
This is a good time to take things slow and enjoy the world outside while it is fun to get wet and not just a matter of going outside. It also means that I'm doing less knitting and more crocheting while I deal with these hot summer nights.
Luckily, a couple of years ago I ran across a reprint of and old needle work series, republished by Piecework Magazine. The Facsimile Editions of Weldon's Practical Needlework proved to be a fun glimpse into past works and design ideas. The books appear to be actual reprints of the original books with obsolete terms, expected prior knowledge, and illustrations included. While I found out about them too late to get a full set, it's safe to say that I enjoy going through each of the books that I have been able to get a hold of and peruse the pictures looking for ideas, techniques, and a bit of history. When a particular illustration catches my attention I sit down a try to translate it's pattern into terms that I can better understand and use later. This usually takes a bit of trial and error and messing about with what tools and fibers I'm using. (Since none of the patterns include gauges this also leaves a lot of leeway on what I want the finished product to be.)
This next little piece was inspired by a dress trim in Volume 6. Generally enjoying knots, cables, and spirals, the Passementerie Dress Trimming on page 8 of the Crochet Fourteenth Series in the book was one of the first patterns I worked on translating. This led to an interesting medallion motif that I used occasionally as a patch for clothing or other pieces, but I could see myself using it as a real trim.
So one day in a fit of boredom I just started making a bunch of medallions together and this doily is the result.
Using cotton thread means that it's easier to work with in the heat that a larger gauge yarn. Plus the way that the medallions are created gives them a textural element that adds nicely to something that may be left around the house. :) The original finished doily measured with about a 9 inch diameter.
I would like to thank snapdragon on Ravelry whose interest in this pattern made me translate my original scribbled notes into something someone else could read.
And remember, if you don't like the gauge, change it. If you don't like the thread, use something else. Just have fun and see were your hook takes you. The only thing that I ask, is please do not sell the pattern as your own, as I can't totally claim it as mine either. :)
If you have any questions about the pattern, please email me at GridMammalCrafts@gmail.com and I'll get back to you as soon as I can.
Also, if you would like a pdf version of this pattern, and have a Ravelry account, it can be found here.
Seven Spiral Doily
Materials:
1 Ball, DMC Cebelia Size 10 Crochet
Thread
1.25 mm Crochet Hook
Small Darning Needle
Notes:
The pattern for the medallions is an
interpretation of a pattern found in Piecework Magazine Presents, A Facsimile
Edition Of, Weldon’s Practical Needlework, Volume 6, called “Passementerie Dress Trimming”,
original author unknown. Copyright 2002,
Interweave Press, Inc., Loveland, Colorado.
Each medallion can be crocheted
individually and then sewn together, or can be crocheted to the surrounding
medallions as it is being made. It
is suggested that medallions are joined as they are made.
Key:
Instructions
for medallions:
(Make
7)
Part 1 –
ch 7; join in a round with a sl st through the first chain to form a ring
Part
2 – 12 sc in the ring that was just made; sl st into the first sc
Part 3 (First Arm)
a. ch 14; turn work
b. sc into the back bump of
the last ch made
c.
sc 21 around the 13
chain just made
d. sc into the next sc from
Part 2; turn work
e. sc into the back loop of
the of the 21 sc just made in Row 3,
part c
f. ch 1; turn work
g. [sc into the back loop of
the next 4 sc from Part 3.d; ch 4] 4 times; sc into the back loop of the last sc
on the arm
h. sc into the next sc from Part
2
Part 4 (Second through Fifth Arms)
a. ch 14
b. sl st into the third picot
made on the previous leg
c.
sc 21 over the last
ch 14
d. sc into the next sc from Part
2; turn work
e. sc into the back loop of
the 21 sc made in Part 4.c
f. ch 1; turn work
g. [sc into the back loop of
the next 4 sc from Part 4.e; ch 4] 4 times; sc into the back loop of the last
sc on the arm
h. sc into the next sc from Part
2
(Complete
this section a total of 4 times.)
Part 5 (Sixth Arm)
a.
ch 14
b. sl st into the third picot
made on the previous leg
c.
sc 21 over the last
ch 14
d. sc into the next sc from Part
2; turn work
e.
sc into the back loop of the 21 sc made in Part 5.c
f.
ch 1; turn work
g. [sc into the back loop of
the next 4 sc from Part 5.e; ch 4] 2
times; ch 2; sl st through the end of the first arm made (This can be tricky, try aiming for the stitch from Part 3.b); ch 1; sc into the back loop of the next 4 sc
from Part 5.e; ch 4; sc into the back loop of the last 5 sc on the arm
h. sl st into the last sc from
Part 2
Pull thread through and cut leaving ~6”
tail.
Instructions
for joining medallions:
Medallions can be joined after each one
is made, or as each successive medallion is made. Personally I prefer to join each new
medallion as I make it.
For joining to a single medallion
i.
Complete
through Part 3.f of the second medallion
ii.
sc into the back loop of the closest 4 sc from previous row
starting with the one closest to the hook; ch 4;
- sc into the back loop of
the next 4 sc on the arm; ch 2; ch 1 through the first loop of an arm of the
first medallion; ch 1; (It doesn’t matter which arm as long as the
line up correctly.)
Be
sure that the medallions will have the same face forward as you sew them
together, because it will be obvious latter on if you have one facing a
different direction.
iii. [sc into the back loop of
the next 4 sc on the arm; ch 4] twice; sc into the back loop of the last 5 sc on the
arm; sc into the next sc from the
initial ring (This completes the first arm of the
second medallion.)
iv. Continue working through Part4.e of the
next arm
v. sc into the outside tip of
the arm on the first medallion that you have already attached to (Be
careful not to add a twist to the medallions.)
chart for instructions i through v
vi. sc into the back loop of
the closest 4 sc from previous row starting with the one closest to the hook;
-
2; ch 1 through the second ch 4 space on the next leg on the
first medallion; ch 1; sc into the back loop of the next 4 sc on the arm you
are currently working on
Chart for instructions vi through vii
vii. [Ch 4; sc into the back
loop of the next 4 sc] x 3, sc into the back loop of the last sc on the arm
viii.
Sc into the next sc from Part 2
ix. Complete the rest of the medallion as
before
For joining to multiple medallions
·
Start
as if you are joining to a single medallion, instead of continuing with Step g,
-
ch 2; ch 1 through the first loop on the arm of the next
medallion; ch 1; sc into the back loop of the next 4 sc on the medallion that
you are building
-
[ch 4; sc into the back loop of the next 4 sc] x 2, sc into the
back loop of the last sc on the arm
- Continue from Part 4.h of the current arm through 4.e of the next arm
·
Continue
on as you did joining to the first medallion from Step v
·
Continue like this until you have joined
to as many medallions as you wish.
·
After you have finished attaching to as
many medallions as you wish, complete the rest of the medallion starting with
Part 4.g after the first picot.
After all medallions are finished weave
in and trim ends.
Instructions
for edging:
After
all the medallions have been made and attached together, and after all of the
ends have been woven in:
Round 1 – With the right side of the
doily facing you, choose a space between two medallions and attach thread to
the picot on the left side.
a.
Working to the left, ch 7
b. [sl st into the tip of the arm to the left; (ch 7; sl st
into the picot on the left) twice; ch 7]
twice
c.
sl st into the tip
of the arm to the left; ch 7; sl st into the picot on the left; ch 7
d. sl st into the picot on
the next medallion; ch 7
·
Repeat
Steps b through d around the doily 5 more times
·
Repeat
Steps b through c once more
·
Sl st into where you
joined the thread.
Round 2
e.
sl st into the first 4 ch of the first round
f.
[ch 7; sl st into the center chain of the next ch 7 loop from round
1] 7 times
g. tr 4 into the ch 7 joining
the two medallions; ch 3; tr 4 into the same ch 7
h. sl st into the center ch
of the next ch 7 of the first row
·
Repeat
Steps f through h around the edge of the doily, ending
with a sl st into the base of the first ch 7 of Row 2
Round 3
i.
sl st into the first 4 ch of the second round
j.
[ch 7; sl st into the center chain of the next ch 7 loop from round
2] 6 times
k. tr 3 into the first tr
made in the section; ch 2; tr 5 into the
space between the tr in the second row; ch 2; tr 3 into the last tr made in the
section in the previous row; sl st to the center chain of the next ch 7 loop
·
Repeat
Steps j through k around the edge of the doily, ending
with a sl st into the base of the first ch 7 of Round 3
Round 4
l.
sl st into the first 4 ch of the third round
m. [ch 7; sl st into the
center chain of the next ch 7 loop from round 3] 5 times
n. tr 3 into the first tr
made in the section; [ch 2; tr 4 into the next space] twice; ch 2; tr 3 into
the last tr made in the section in the previous row; sl st to the center chain of
the next ch 7 loop
·
Repeat
Steps m through n around the edge of the doily, ending
with a sl st into the base of the first ch 7 of Round 4
Round 5
o. [sc 11 over the next ch 7]
5 times
p. sc into the top of the next
3 tr; [sc 2 over the ch 2 space; sc into the top of the next four tr] twice; sc
2 over the ch 2 space; sc into the top of the next 3 tr
·
Repeat
Steps o through p around the edge of the doily, ending
with a sl st into the base of the first sc of Round 5
Pull thread through and cut leaving ~6”
tail.
Weave in ends. ends.