Around the House - Part 1: In Crochet

I have to admit.  This month's topic came about because I needed a rug.  Our current apartment has floors that are either hardwood or tile.  The occupants also include two cats and a toddler.  I finally got to the point where I wanted something beside the bed so that I didn't track fur in with me, or directly step on any small toy left behind when getting out.

So I searched.  One of my main problems is that I like to be able to feel textiles before I buy them.  Unless there is a very convincing tactile review on an online product, I generally won't even consider it. This pretty much took the internet out of my search parameters except for finding store locations.  I found plenty of rugs.  Some of them I even liked.  All of those fell into the categories of too expensive, or a cat could easily destroy it in a could of weeks.  The rest were either I just couldn't stand to put next to my bed, or felt terrible.

After despairing a bit I turned to my stash to see what was in there.  Lo and behold, in there I found a bundle of sash cord that I had bought years ago to experiment with, but never got around to it.  The cording was a bit unwieldy, and with only 100 feet, it wasn't going to go very far if I started to work with it on it's own.  In comes a bunch of dishcloth cotton that I thing I got for a bag somewhere along the line.  The two seemed to work together well.  Together they have a bit of forgiveness when pressed on and felt like lightly plied cotton when rubbed against.

Now, my first instinct on rugs is to weave them.  My apartment is way to small for a project like that though.  Knitting was out too just because it seemed more difficult that I wanted to deal with.  So that left me with crochet.  I could do that.

Now I had to come up with a basic shape.  Rectangles are always a favorite to sit next to a flat object, but somehow it that shape didn't really appeal after looking at all of the other rugs.  Circles are pretty simple, and to make them with crochet one usually makes a spiral.  I like spirals, but I didn't what just a circle.  That seemed dull.  But if I went crazy with the design, it would be done probable at about the same time Bug-A-Boo was in high school.  So I went with a shape that was basically circular, but with a bit of an interest.

In the end our household has a rug my stash pile is unnoticeable smaller.

Currently our Sam Cat has taken over my rug, so I'm interested to find out when I get it back.  She also enjoys the small holes that I added in to change the shape a bit.  Sam Cat has attacked them a few times just to make sure that there's nothing hiding in there, and so far the rug is not showing any damage.

If you would like a PDF of this pattern and have a Ravelry account, a copy can be found here.

If you would prefer a PDF from Etsy, it can be found here.

Feel free to change the thread, gauge, or size to fit your needs.  Add an edging, or leave it as is.  Use the charts as reference for other patterns.  Just please do not try to sell this pattern as your own.  I'll warn you though.  The math worked out a bit differently than I expected when I started crocheting over the cording.

If you have any problems that you think that I might be able to help you with, email me at GridMammalCrafts@gmail.com .

I hope that you enjoy this rug as much as Sam Cat.

Lazy Eye Rug

Materials:

·         1 Hank Wellington, Medium Load, Braided Cotton Multi-Purpose Sash Cord, 7/32 in x 100 ft.

·         5 Skeins Lily, Sugar’n Cream, 95 yds./86 m: Color – Countryside Ombre

·         Size G, 4 mm Crochet Hook

·         Stitch Marker

·         Darning Needle

Gauge:

·         13 Stitches x 5 Rows = 3” x 3” in Single Crochet over Cording

Finished Size:

·         Approx. 27.5” wide x 24.5” tall

Notes:

·         Do not place this rug next to open flame or extreme heat. 

·         All stitches use the yarn crocheted around the sash cord

·         Be careful not to crochet too much twist into the cording as you go around.

·         Check work regularly to make sure that the rug remains fairly flat.

·         Keep an easy tension.  If the tension is too tight, the work will start to turn into a basket.

·         Mind rounds 7, 15, 19, and 24.  These are the rounds where the rhythm of the pattern changes.

Key:

Instructions:

Remove the end of the cord from the bundle and make a mark ~ 3” from the end.

Starting at the tip of the cord, single crochet 15 stitches around the cord between the beginning and the mark

Rotate the crocheted portion into a circle with the stitches on the outside.

All stitches will be crocheted around the cord as you go.

Round 1: Single crochet two stitches into the second stitch from the tip of the cord.  Mark the first stitch as the beginning of the round.  Crochet two stitches into each of the next thirteen stitches. (28 stitches)

Round 2: (Sc 2 into the first stitch, sc into the next stitch) x 14 (42 stitches)

Round 3: (Sc in the first two stitches, sc2 into the next stitch) x 14 (56 stitches)

Round 4: (Sc in the first stitch, sc2 in the next stitch, sc in the next two stitches) x 14 (70 stitches)

Round 5: (Sc in the first four stitches, sc2 in the next stitch) x 14 (84 stitches)

Round 6: (Sc in the first three stitches, sc2 in the next stitch, sc in the next two stitches) x 14 (98 stitches)

Round 7: [(Sc in the next seven stitches) x 6, sc crochet around the cord 13 times, skip 7 stitches] x 2 (110 stitches)

Round 8: [Sc in the first seven stitches, (sc in the next six stitches, sc2 in the next stitche) x 4, sc in the next seven stitches, sc in the next six stitches, sc3 in the next stitch, sc in the next six stitches] x 2 (122 stitches)

Round 9: [Skip one stitch, sc in the next six stitches, (sc in the first four stitches, sc2 in the next stitch, sc in the next three stitches) x 4, sc in the next six stitches, skip one stitch, sc in the next seven stitches, sc3 in the next stitch, sc in the next seven stitches] x 2 (130 stitches)

Round 10: [Skip one stitch, sc in the next five stitches, (sc in the next two stitches, sc2 in the next stitch, sc in the next six stitches) x 4, sc in the next five stitches, skip one stitch, sc in the next eight stitches, sc3 in the next stitch, sc in the next eight stitches] x 2 (138 stitches)

Round 11: [Skip one stitch, sc in the next four stitches, (sc in the next nine stitches, sc2 in the next stitch) x 4, sc in the next four stitches, skip one stitch, sc in the next nine stitches, sc3 in the next stitch, sc in the next nine stitches] x 2 (146 stitches)

Round 12: [Skip one stitch, sc in the next three stitches, (sc in the next seven stitches, sc2 in the next stitch, sc in the next three stitches) x 4, sc in the next three stitches, skip one stitch, sc in the next ten stitches, sc3 in the next stitch, sc in the next ten stitches] x 2 (154 stitches)

Round 13: [Skip one stitch, sc in the next two stitches, (sc in the next five stitches, sc2 in the next stitch, sc in the next six stitches) x 4, sc in the next two stitches, skip one stitch, sc in the next eleven stitches, sc3 in the next stitch, sc in the next eleven stitches] x 2 (162 stitches)

Round 14: [Skip one stitch, sc in the next stitch, (sc in the next three stitches, sc2 in the next stitch, sc in the next nine stitches) x 4, sc in the next stitch, skip one stitch, sc in the next twelve stitches, sc3 in the next stitch, sc in the next twelve stitches] x 2 (170 stitches)

Round 15: [Skip one stitch, sc in the next fourteen stitches, (sc in the next thirteen stitches, sc2 in the next stitch) x 2, sc in the next fourteen stitches, skip one stitch, sc in the next thirteen stitches, sc3 in the next stitch, sc in the next thirteen stitches] x 2 (174 stitches)

Round 16: [Skip one stitch, sc in the next thirteen stitches, (sc in the next eleven stitches, sc2 in the next stitch, sc in the next three stitches) x 2, sc in the next thirteen stitches, skip one stitch, sc in the next fourteen stitches, sc3 in the next stitch, sc in the next fourteen stitches] x 2 (178 stitches)

Round 17: [Skip one stitch, sc in the next twelve stitches, (sc in the next nine stitches, sc 2 in the next stitch, sc in the next six stitches) x 2, sc in the next twelve stitches, skip one stitch, sc in the next fifteen stitches, sc 3 in the next stitch, sc in the next fifteen stitches] x 2 (182 stitches)

Round 18: [Skip one stitch, sc in the next eleven stitches, (sc in the next seven stitches, sc2 in the next stitch, sc in the next nine stitches) x 2, sc in the next eleven stitches, skip one stitch, sc in the next sixteen stitches, sc 3 in the next stitch, sc in the next sixteen stitches] x 2 (186 stitches)

Round 19: [Sc in the next eleven stitches, (sc in the next five stitches, sc2 in the next stitch, sc in the next twelve stitches) x 2, sc in the next eleven stitches, sc in the next seventeen stitches, sc3 in the next stitch, sc in the next seventeen stitches] x 2 (194 stitches)

Round 20: Sc in the next eleven stitches, (sc in the next three stitches, sc2 in the next stitch, sc in the next fifteen stitches) x 2, sc in the next ten stitches, sc in the next three stitches, sc2 in the next stitch, sc in the next fifteen stitches, sc3 in the next stitch, sc in the next fifteen stitches, sc2 in the next stitch, sc in the next three stitches, sc in the next ten stitches, (sc in the next three stitches, sc2 in the next stitch, sc in the next fifteen stitches) x 2, sc in the next ten stitches, sc in the next three stitches, sc2 in the next stitch, sc in the next fifteen stitches, sc3 in the next stitch, sc in the next fifteen stitches, sc2 in the next stitch, sc in the next two stitches, (Remove stitch marker.) sc in the next stitch (This is the new end of the round.  Replace the stitch marker as needed.)   (202 stitches)

Round 21: [(Sc in the next nine stitches, sc2 in the next stitch) x 8, sc in the next stitch, sc3 in the next stitch, sc in the next stitch, (sc in the next nine stitches, sc2 in the next stitch) x 2] x 2 (230 stitches)

Round 22: [(Sc in the next seven stitches, sc2 in the next stitch, sc in the next three stitches) x 8, sc in the next two stitches, sc3 in the next stitch, sc in the next two stitches, (sc in the next seven stitches, sc2 in the next stitch, sc in the next three stitches) x 2] x 2 (254 stitches)

Round 23: [(Sc in the next five stitches, sc2 in the next stitch, sc in the next six stitches) x 8, sc in the next three stitches, sc3 in the next stitch, sc in the next three stitches, (sc in the next five stitches, sc2 in the next stitch, sc in the next six stitches) x 2] x 2 (278 stitches)

Round 24: [(Sc in the next three stitches, sc2 in the next stitch, sc in the next nine stitches) x 6, sc in the next thirty stitches, sc3 in the next stitch, sc in the next thirty stitches] x 2 (294 stitches)

Round 25: [(Sc in the next thirteen stitches, sc2 in the next stitch) x 6, sc in the next thirty-one stitches, sc3 in the next stitch, sc in the next thirty-one stitches] x 2 (310 stitches)

Round 26: [(Sc in the next fifteen stitches) x 6, sc in the next thirty-two stitches, sc3 in the next stitch, sc in the next thirty-two stitches] x 2 (314 stitches)

Round 27: [(Sc in the next fifteen stitches) x 6, sc in the next sixteen stitches, skip one stitch, sc in the next sixteen stitches, sc3 in the next stitch, sc in the next sixteen stitches, skip one stitch, sc in the next sixteen stitches] x 2 (314 stitches)

Round 28: [(Sc in the next fifteen stitches) x 6, skip one stitch, sc in the next thirty-two stitches, sc3 in the next stitch, sc in the next thirty-two stitches, skip one stitch] x 2 (314 stitches)

(Somewhere in the next row the cord will run out.  Stop working the pattern when you have about ½” of the cord left.  Cut the yarn about 1’ from the last stitch.  Pull the yarn through the last stitch and use the tail to tie the end of the cord down.)

Round 29: [(Sc in the next fifteen stitches) x 6, sc in the next sixteen stitches, skip one stitch, sc in the next sixteen stitches, sc3 in the next stitch, sc in the next three stitches, sc in the next sixteen stitches, skip one stitch, sc in the next sixteen stitches] x 2 (314 stitches)

Weave in ends and sew down the starting cord end.

Dampen rug and block it out on a water resistant surface.

Stay Tuned: Later in the month we head to the kitchen.

A Hot Pad for Hot Food

Mid August is upon us once again.  School is just around the corner.  The days are getting shorter and the harvests are coming in.  This is the time when I start thinking about my favorite recipes and traditions.  This year I get to start sharing these memories with my Bug-A-Boo and hopefully pass some of my nostalgia on to her.

In honor of this I have another pattern out of the archives.  This one is a couple years old and came about when I was experimenting with the different possibilities for a pint glass cozy that I had designed.  (You never want your cold pint to get too slippery in the summer.)  After playing around a bit, it turned out that the circular design worked well in a hot pad.  The center of is is a bit high, but a lot of the old hot pad patterns had a high center as well.  This hot pad is thick enough to put your steaming casserole on the table and decorative enough to just have hanging around the kitchen. I hope you enjoy it as much as I have.

If you would like a pdf of this pattern and have a Ravelry account, a copy can be found here.

Feel free to change the yarn, gauge, or size to fit your needs.  Just please do not try to sell this pattern as your own.

If you have any problems that you think that I might be able to help you with, email me at GridMammalCrafts@gmail.com .

Chain Link Hot Pad

Materials:

            Size G, 4.25 mm Crochet Hook

            1 skein Crème de la Crème, Worsted Weight Cotton, Tan – Color A

            1 skein Crème de la Crème, Worsted Weight Cotton, Royal Blue – Color B

            Darning Needle

Gauge:

            18 sts x 20 rows = 4” x 4” in Single Stitches

Finished Size:

            9” in Diameter

Notes:

            Be mindful of the ring orientation when putting in the last ring to close the circle.

            It is easier to weave in yarn ends at the end of completing each ring

Abbreviations:

            ch - chain

sc – single crochet

½ dc – half double stitch

            dc – double crochet

Instructions

Rings

With Color A, chain 25, join with slip stitch to form a ring

RND 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 39 dc into ring, join with slip stitch at the top of the ch-3. – 40 dc

RND 3: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in the next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next dc, *dc in the next 4 dc, 2 dc in the next dc*.  Repeat from * to * 6 more times and join with a slip stitch at the top of the ch-3.  – 48sts

Fasten off and weave in ends.  This makes your first ring.

For sequential rings, after creating the chain 25, set the previous ring in front of you with the right side facing up.  Drop the tail of the chain through the center of the previous ring and then join the chain into a ring with the slip stitch.  Work the rest of the ring by rotating it through the previous ring.

Continue on in this manner until you have five rings linked together, being sure to link each ring together in the same way as the one previously.

The sixth ring is the last ring and the one that will join the links together in a circle.  Be careful, this is the hardest step in the project.   Put your chain of 25 through the previous link as you have done before, but before you loin it together, weave it around the first ring that you made and join.  Your linked chain will be in a kind of figure 8 and will feel wrong and tight.  Complete RND 2 and after linking with your slip stitch, lay out your work to make sure that all of your rings look like they are traveling together in the same way.  If it does not, pull out your stitches and try looping your chain through the rings again, paying close attention to how the other rings interact.  If you check after RND 2 and all of your rings are behaving, complete the last ring.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Lay out all of the rings so that they lay down flat with the right sides facing up.  Now you are going to stitch around the outside of them to lock them into place.  With a new strand of color A, sc once into the top of 16 consecutive dc in the first ring.  Move to the next ring and sc once into the top of 16 of the next ring’s dc.  Continue this way until you are back to where you started and the rings are secured.  Join with a slip stitch to your first sc.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Back

With Color B, chain 6 sc in a sliding loop, join with slip stitch to the first stitch. (Mark first st to keep track of the beginning of each row.)

RND 3: 2 sc in each sc (12 sts)

RND 4: * 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in the next sc* repeat 5 times (18 sts)

RND 5: * 1 sc in the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc * repeat 5 times (24 sts)

RND 6: * 1 sc in the next 3 sc, 2 sc in the next sc * repeat 5 times (30 sts)

RND 7: * 1 sc in the next 4 sc, 2 sc in the next sc * repeat 5 times (36 sts)

Continue on in this manner until you have 108 sc

Join with a slipstitch to the first stitch of the last round.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Putting Your Hot Pad Together

Place your front ring chain onto your hot pad back with wrong sides together.   Feel free to tack both sides together when you like the placement.  The side that has the rings on it will now be the right side. 

RND: From the right side, start at a corner of the back piece with Color B, move 1 stitch to the left and sc. Now *through the front and the back, sc through the top of a ring edge stitch and the back edge stitch, spike stitch through the row below the next stitch, spike stitch two rows below the next stitch, spike stitch a row below the next stitch, sc in the next two stitches, sc in the next two sc only through the back layer.  Through the front and the back of the next ring stitch through the top of a ring edge stitch and the back edge stitch, spike stitch through the row below the next stitch, spike stitch two rows below the next stitch, spike stitch a row below the next stitch, stitch in the next two stitches, m sc in the next two sc only through the back layer. ½ dc, ch-1, ½ dc in the back corner sc, sc into the sc in the back.* Repeat from * to * 4 times, on the fifth time, do not do the final sc, but join with a slip st to the first sc.

RND 2:  Ch-1, *sc in the next 17 stitches, (1/2 dc, dc, ½ dc) in the ch-1*, repeat from * to * 5 more times.  Join with slip st to the first ch-1.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

To keep the center of your rings from trying to lift up, take a piece of color B yarn and sc into each circle from the center.  Slip stitch into the first sc.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

A Simple Cozy to Knit Mid-July

We're half-way through another July.  Thankfully, so far it is not as warm as it was last year.  That doesn't mean that it's not still a good time to go out swimming and have a nice drink in the evening.  Well, for the most part Bug-A-Boo gets to do most of the swimming and her Daddy gets most of the nice drinks right now, but you get my point.  :)

Anyway, I was going through my pattern archives to see what was there and what I could update. Along the way I came across this little piece.  I made this one a few years ago when I was trying to come up with a simple and fast pattern to help a friend move up from simply knitting and pearling scarfs.  Cables are my basic go to for patterns, but most people find them daunting and/or time consuming.  So I decided to go with a mock cable.  This would mean learning a simple knitting increase (yarn over) with a simple decrease (knit two together) and the stitch count would remain the same for every row.  By making it into a drink cozy the project stayed small and manageable.  With a simple ribbing on each side, the piece was less likely to roll and it meant that every row started off with knit stitches.

I had the initial pattern up for awhile on Ravelry.  It wasn't written very well.  There wasn't a chart and there were probably spelling errors.  After awhile Ravelry decided that it didn't fit it's pattern requirements and removed it.  It's safe to say that I pretty much forgot about it after that.  But here it is, back again, with a chart and everything.  :) Happy knitting.

Need a simple project or want to stretch your skills a bit?  Give this a try with that extra skein of worsted weight cotton yarn.

If you would like a pdf of this pattern and have a Ravelry account, a copy can be found here.

Feel free to change the yarn, gauge, or size to fit your needs.  Just please do not try to sell this pattern as your own.

Jenn Lin’s Coffee Cup Cozy

Materials:

·          Size 7, 4.5 mm Knitting Needles

·         1 partial skein Lion Cotton, 100% Pure Cotton Worsted Weight, Grape

·         Darning Needle

·         Pin

·         Button (There is no practical reason for a particular size.)

Gauge:

·         18 stitches x 28 rows = 4" x 4" in stockinet stitch

Finished Size:

·          ~ 3.5" wide x 9" long. This pattern can be made to fit around all standard size coffee cups and tavern glasses.

Chart:

Written Instructions:

Cast on 17 stitches

Row 1 (ws): p17

Row 2 (rs): p4, k4, k2tog, k3, yo, p4

Row 3 (ws): p17

Row 4 (rs): p4, k3, k2tog, k3, yo, k, p4

Row 5 (ws): p17

Row 6 (rs): p4, k2, k2tog, k3, yo, k2, p4

Row 7 (ws): p17

Row 8 (rs): p4, k, k2tog, k3, yo, k3, p4

Row 9 (ws): p17

Row 10 (rs): p4, k2tog, k3, yo, k4, p4

Row 11 (ws): p17

Row 12 (rs): p4, k9, p4

Repeat rows 1 - 12 five more times.

Repeat rows 1 - 11 once more.

Cast off knit-wise.

Cut yarn and weave in ends

Wrap the strip of knitting around a coffee cup and tack in place with a pin.  Keep in mind there will be some give, so tack a little tighter than normal.

Use spare yarn to stitch the edges together where they overlap.  

Decide where you would like the button to be placed and sew it on.

Quick Stitches

With a new grid mammal expected any time in the next month, thoughts turn to making the living arrangements ready.  With an overabundance of craft supplies in a small space, much of this falls into the "use it or loose it" category.  Which means that I'm using a lot of supplies that I forgot that I owned.

Out of this pile of forgotten craft supplies came a set of cheap three inch embroidery hoops.These weren't the type of hoops I would want to sew with, but they do make nice simple frames.  Along with some 14 gauge Aida cloth and thread I decided to make some baby animal faces to help decorate the rearranged space.  Because the hoops were so small and the cloth gauge was so big, I also decided to make the resolution of each animal face pretty low and simple.  This also meant that each face would be faster to make and I could move on to finding uses for more unused craft supplies.

Feel free to change the thread, the gauge, or the size.  Just please don't try to sell the patterns as your own.  

If you would like a pdf of these cross stitch patterns, they can be found at Etsy, here.

If you have any questions about the pattern, please email me at GridMammalCrafts@gmail.com and I'll get back to you as soon as I can.

Making each individual sampler required:
    1) Three Inch Wood Embroidery Hoop
    1) Five Inch Square Piece of 14 Count Aida Cloth
    1) Embroidery Needle
    1) Pair Embroidery Scissors
    1) Piece of Felt (large enough to cover the back of the hoop with sampler)
    Desired Embroidery Thread
    Craft Glue

To begin with each animal sampler was stitched onto its own cloth.  (Please scroll down to see patterns.)  After the stitching was complete, the cloth was lightly ironed using a pressing cloth and then placed and centered into its own embroidery hoop.

When the sampler is framed as desired and the hoop is tightened, I put a running stitch around the remains of the Aida cloth about a quarter to a half of an inch away from the frame, being careful not to get to close to the edge of the cloth, and cut off the extra cloth points.  After the running stitch is run completely around the rim of the hoop, I pull the thread tight, pulling in the remains of the cloth towards the center of the hoop, and tie the tread off.

Then, using the hoop as a stencil, a piece of felt is cut for each hoop.  Glue is applied to the back of the hoop close to the cloth and the felt is pressed onto the back of the framed sampler.  Any glue that leaks out is quickly wiped away and the entire sampler is pressed between two weighed objects overnight.  (Phone books work well.)  After the glue is dried and set, and extra felt around the edges can be trimmed away and each sampler can be hung as desired.

Now for the sampler patterns.

Rabbit Kit’s Face

Cross Stitch Pattern

Finished Size on 14 Count Aida Cloth:

          

Duckling’s Face

Cross Stitch Pattern

Finished Size on 14 Count Aida Cloth:

     

Otter Pup’s Face

Cross Stitch Pattern

Finished Size on 14 Count Aida Cloth:

       

Meditations with Fillet Crochet

It's good to see you all again.  I apologize for the long departure.  Our household found out some months ago that we are expecting a mini grid mammal this summer, and things got a bit busy after that.

As things have gotten busier, what with the preparations and planning, it is important to me to keep my crafts near.  The repetitiveness of building one stitch on top of another has helped to calm those anxious times and provide a sort of meditation.

A technique that fits perfectly into this rhythm is a form called fillet crochet.  It basically it consists of crocheting squares, one after the other, on top of each other.  As you create them, you leave some open and you fill some in with extra stitches, thereby creating a two-dimensional picture.  I originally learned from a book, but there are a multitude of videos on the internet to show you the basics.  One can be found here.

Following is a pattern for a piece that I made some years ago for a friend that had gotten their doctorate in advanced mathematics.  While I can't hope to understand what she processes everyday, I could help her celebrate by sending her something that I could make.  My gift was a small runner done in fillet crochet of a chaos butterfly.  You know, that little insect somewhere out there that flaps its wings and starts a chain reaction that starts a hurricane on the other side of the world.  It incorporates, yes you guessed it, a butterfly with the Greek symbol for chaos.  A bit cheesy, I know, but sometimes it's important to remember that little things can lead to big changes.

Feel free to change the thread, the gauge, or the size.  Just please don't try to sell the patterns as your own.  

If you have any questions about the pattern, please email me at GridMammalCrafts@gmail.com and I'll get back to you as soon as I can.

Also, if you would like a pdf version of this pattern, and have a Ravelry account, it can be found here.

If you would like a copy from Etsy, it can be found here.

Chaos Butterfly Runner

(In Filet Crochet)

            Materials:

                        2) Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Thread, Extra Fine Size 30, 500 yards, White

                        1) Steel Crochet Hook, Size 11, 1.10mm

            Key:

            Start:

                        Chain 436 (loosely) + chain 3 

                         (This the will create a base chain of 436 and the chain 3 will be the first double 

                                         stitch of the wall of the first square)

                        Double stitch in the fourth chain from the hook  

                        (This will place the first two double stitches of the first square.)

             Finished Size:

                        10.75” High x 24.5” Long

            Pattern: (In Four Parts)

·         Unfortunately, for ease of reading, the pattern had to be broken up over several pages.  The edges of each row and column are numbered and the section of the pattern is labelled with a letter.  The letters are oriented as shown in the following table.  I would suggest, depending on your tastes, working along an entire row or column as you go along.  This will take you across three pattern pieces as you finish each line.  On the final page you will find the pattern in its entirety.