Saturday, November 1, 2014

Late Autumn Cap to Knit

The night chill has turned into the morning frost, and as the days get shorter, there seems to be more and more to do.  It's the beginning of the holiday season, and the time to spend with family and friends remembering the warmth of summer and the joy of a large meal.


With all the social obligations, work, and preparation to do this time of year it's hard to find the time to sit and make something.  This is why I tend to work on smaller projects in this season that are more mobile and take up less space.  One of my favorites is a cabled stocking cap.

Each cap uses only one skein of yarn and fits into a small basket or bag while you are working on it.  If you do not wish to keep it for yourself, this cap also makes an excellent present.  The cabling wraps around the repeats to give the hat a seamless quality.  The ribbed brim can be folded up or down to just keep the top of the head warm or to protect the ears from the winter winds.

I hope that you enjoy this hat as much as I do.  Feel free to change the yarn, the gauge, or the size.  Just please don't try to sell the patterns as your own.

If you have any questions about the pattern, please email me at GridMammalCrafts@gmail.com and I'll get back to you as soon as I can.

If you would like a pdf copy of this pattern and have a Ravelry account, you can find a copy here.

Winter Tangles Stocking Cap

Materials:
            4 Size 7, 4.5mm Double Point Knitting Needles
            Size 7, 4.5mm 16" Circular Knitting Needle (Optional)
Cable Needle
            1 skein of malabrigo, Worsted, Pure Merino Wool
                    100g (3.53 oz), 210 Yards (192 m)
                    Color: 622 SFO Sky
            Stitch Marker
            Darning Needle
 
Gauge:
            34 sts x 30 rows = 4” x 4” in unstretched 2 x 2 rib
 
Finished Size:
            Adult
Notes:
            When the work has reached a point where there are enough stitches, you may choose to switch over to your circular needle, or continue on with your double points.
            Unless otherwise noted repeat each row shown in the chart six times in the round.
            On increase rows, total stitch counts for the round can be found (in italics).
            Notes can also be found (in italics).
            Row 1 is the Cast On row.
            Last round shown is the Bind Off round.
            The ribbing can be extended as to be as long as you would like to increase the amount that can be rolled over the ears and neck.
            In rows 36 and 52, do the first cable cross from the start of the round when you get to the end of the row.  Be sure to take out the place marker, knit the first two crossed stitches, and replace the marker, then knit the second two stitches.  Continue with pattern as if the row started normally.


Chart: Crown
Chart: Rib


Written Instructions:
Round 1: Cast on 6 stitches and place the stitches on three double point needles. Join in a round, being careful not to twist your stitches. Place stitch marker at the beginning of the round.
Round 2: (kfb)*6 (12 sts)
Round 3: k12
Round 4: (k, lli, rli, k)*6 (24 sts)
Round 5: k24
Round 6: (k, lli, k2, rli, k)*6 (36 sts)
Round 7: k36
Round 8: (k, lli, k4, rli, k)*6 (48 sts)
Round 9: k48
Round 10: (k, lli, k, 22lc, k, rli, k)*6 (60 sts)
Round 11: (k2, p, k4, p, k2)*6
Round 12: (k, lli, k, p, k4, p, k, rli, k)*6 (72 sts)
Round 13: (k2, p2, k4, p2, k2)*6
Round 14: (k, lli, k, p2, 22lc, p2, k, rli, k)*6 (84 sts)
Round 15: (k2, p3, k4, p3, k2)*6
Round 16: (k, lli, k, p2, 21rpc, 21lpc, p2, k, rli, k)*6 (96 sts)
Round 17: (k3, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k3)*6
Round 18: (k, lli, 21lpc, 21rpc, p2, 21lpc, 21rpc, rli, k)*6 (108 sts)
Round 19: (k2, p, k4, p4, k4, p, k2)*6
Round 20: (k, lli, k, p, 22rc, p4, 22rc, p, k, rli, k)*6 (120 sts)
Round 21: (k2, p2, k4, p4, k4, p2, k2)*6
Round 22: (k, lli, k, p2, k4, p4, k4, p2, k, rli, k)*6 (132 sts)
Round 23: (k3, p2, k4, p4, k4, p2, k3)*6
Round 24: (k, lli, k2, p2, 22rc, p4, 22rc, p2, k2, rli, k)*6 (144 sts)
Round 25: (k, p, k2, p2, k4, p4, k4, p2, k2, p, k)*6
Round 26: (k, p, 21lpc, 21rpc, 21lpc, p2, 21rpc, 21lpc, 21rpc, p, k)*6
Round 27: (k, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k)*6
Round 28: (k, p2, 22lc, p2, 21lpc, 21rpc, p2, 22lc, p2, k)*6
Round 29: (k, p2, k4, p3, k4, p3, k4, p2, k)*6
Round 30: (k, p, 21rpc, 21lpc, p2, 22lc, p2, 21rpc, 21lpc, p, k)*6
Round 31: (k, p, k2, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k2, p, k)*6
Round 32: (k, 21rpc, p2, 21lpc, 21rpc, 21lpc, 21rpc, p2, 21lpc, k)*6
Round 33: (k3, p4, k4, p2, k4, p4, k3)*6
Round 34: (21rpc, p4, 22rc, p2, 22rc, p4, 21lpc)*6
Round 35: (k2, p5, k4, p2, k4, p5, k2)*6
Round 36: k2, *p5, k4, p2, k4, p5, 22rc^ (Repeat from * to ^ five more times, remembering that the final 22rc will happen over the stitch marker. Be sure that the stitch marker returns to the middle of the cable cross.)
Round 37: p5, k4, p2, k4, p5, k2, *k2, p5, k4, p2, k4, p5, k2^ (Repeat from * to ^ four more times.)
Round 38: (21lpc, p4, 22rc, p2, 22rc, p4, 21rpc)*6
Round 39: (p, k2, p4, k4, p2, k4, p4, k2, p)*6
Round 40: (p, 21lpc, p2, 21rpc, 21lpc, 21rpc, 21lpc, p2, 21rpc, p)*6
Round 41: (p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2)*6
Round 42: (p2, 21lpc, 21rpc, p2, 22lc, p2, 21lpc, 21rpc, p2)*6
Round 43: (p3, k4, p3, k4, p3, k4, p3)*6
Round 44: (p3, 22lc, p3, k4, p3, 22lc, p3)*6
Round 45: (p3, k4, p3, k4, p3, k4, p3)*6
Round 46: (p2, 21rpc, 21lpc, p2, 22lc, p2, 21rpc, 21lpc, p2)*6
Round 47: (p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2)*6
Round 48: (p, 21rpc, p2, 21lpc, 21rpc, 21lpc, 21rpc, p2, 21lpc, p)*6
Round 49: (p, k2, p4, k4, p2, k4, p4, k2, p)*6
Round 50: (21rpc, p4, 22rc, p2, 22rc, p4, 21lpc)*6
Round 51: (k2, p5, k4, p2, k4, p5, k2)*6
Round 52: k2, *p4, 21rpc, k2, p2, k2, 21lpc, p4, 22rc^ (Repeat from * to ^ five more times, remembering that the final 22rc will happen over the stitch marker. Be sure that the stitch marker returns to the middle of the cable cross.)
Round 53: p4, k2, p, k2, p2, k2, p, k2, p4, k2, *k2, p4, k2, p, k2, p2, k2, p, k2, p4, k2^ (Repeat from * to ^ four more times.)
Round 54: (21lpc, p2, 21rpc, p, k2, p2, k2, p, 21lpc, p2, 21rpc)*6
Round 55 - 83: (p, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p)*6
Bind off stitches.

Break yarn and weave in ends.

© Grid Mammal 2013 

9 comments:

  1. The gauge for 2x2 ribbing seems too high. The gauge for stockinette with my worrsted yarn is 16-20" per 4" When I started my gauge swatch using this yarn I cast on 34 stitches in 2 x 2 ribbing and the swatch is almost 6" across. I'm using size 7 needles and yarn that is 3.52 oz/100 g. I am a fairly tight knitter, I usually need to use needles a size larger.

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    Replies
    1. Hi,

      It has been awhile since I did this piece, it is possible that the gauge is off. The ribbing after it is done awhile tends to kind of fold over itself when it isn't stretched and then expand when it is.
      I am curious, did you do your gauge swatch in the round and how long was it? Did the ribbing naturally pull itself towards the vertical center of the swatch?
      Thanks.
      -Grid Mammal

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    2. Thanks for your quick response! I'm knitting the swatch flat. When I measured, the swatch was 6" wide and I made sure it wasn't stretched at all. I haven't finished it because even the cast on edge was wider than 4". The ribbing is nice and snug.

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    3. Thanks.
      If the ribbing is definitely coming out at not enough stitches per inch, then I would suggest going down a needle size or two.
      Without doing the gauge the gauge in the round I can't be certain.
      Also, if your yarn has significantly less less length than 210 yards for that 100 grams and is also a merino wool, then it may be thicker and be effecting the gauge too.
      Mostly, my advice is, if it looks like it's going to be to big, go down in needle size. You can also start with size 7 for the ribbing and drop needle sizes for the ribbing for a snugger fit. This is a common maneuver. If I remember correctly, this pattern took pretty much an entire skein of the suggested yarn, so yardage may be something to watch.
      Please let me know if this helps at all.
      -Grid Mammal

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    4. Thanks, again! This has been a great learning experience. I'm returning to knitting after years and years away, and finally enjoying it. There is much I don't know. I didn't know that gauge swatches in the round was a thing! I've been doing research since you answered. Do you like the swatch knitted in the full round or with the swatch knotted at the edges but knitted all in one direction? I'm inclined to try the second choice. I saw it described in June Hemmons Hiatt's book The Principles of Knitting. I'll definitely move to a smaller size needle. I'm using a different yarn (the hat is for my college age granddaughter who chose a worsted weight cotton (Cumulous Dappled from Juniper Moon Farm - 100g., 251 yds). I'll let you know how it comes out! I appreciate your help!
      Deb

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    5. Good morning. Yay! I haven't ever tried doing a swatch with knotted edges. Usually if I have to do a swatch in the round, that's the way I go figuring that I'm getting into a similar rhythm and tension that I would normally. Everyone has their own way though, and trying new things is great! I also haven't ever tried a pattern similar to this in a chainette cotton, but am excited to find out how it goes. Happy knitting and thank you for your interest!

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    6. Well, I figured out why the yarn I was using wasn't knitting up in the correct gauge. It was a cotton yarn with no stretchiness. I changed projects - it is going to be a lovely scarf. I'll knit the hat next! With wool! Thanks for all your helpful suggestions!

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